From the queen of the Shang Dynasty to Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty, why did all ancient emperors have a jade ring?

"After leaving office, I was penniless and cold, so I had to sell paintings to earn a living.

I am most ashamed of the small amount of money in Wu Yin's box, so I give you a few strokes of orchid in the spring breeze. ”

This is a poem titled "For My Second Daughters Who Marry Yuan Lady" written by Zheng Banqiao, who was known for his proficiency in poetry, calligraphy and painting, when his daughters got married.

After he stopped being an official, Zheng Xie, as a father, could not even give his daughter a generous dowry. He could only paint a few paintings of "Spring Orchids" to keep in the bottom of the box, leaving his daughter a treasure of calligraphy and painting. It can be considered that I have done my best to provide my children with a good harvest.

A talented man with an official background and impressive skills was able to use his expertise to leave a rare calligraphy work for his daughter. But what can we use to leave a treasure for our children and relatives?

Jadeite inlaid with gold ring

It can be found from historical records that gifts from relatives were mostly jade bracelets for women and jade rings for men. This is because jade jewelry is easy to preserve and has a stable value, and bracelets and rings both have very beautiful meanings in Chinese culture .

The evolution and popularity of jade thumb rings

The thumb ring was called "shè" in ancient times. "Shuowen Jiezi" said "shè means shooting", which shows that it was a tool for riding and shooting. The 韘 was first seen in the Shang Dynasty and was very popular during the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. The earliest known jade hairpin in my country was found in the tomb of Fu Hao, queen of the Shang Dynasty.

Jade Bracelet of Fu Hao, Queen of Shang

The early bowstring was a hand guard worn on the finger that hooked the bowstring so as to hold the bowstring. At the same time, it can also prevent your fingers from being scratched by the rapidly retracted bowstring when releasing the arrow. Before the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, jade 韘 usually had a groove for string running and an eye for tying a rope, making it a practical archery tool.

By the Han Dynasty, with the changes in the scale of wars and combat methods, the reduction of archery and hunting activities, and the gradual penetration of jade ritual concepts, the practicality of jade bracelets gradually weakened, while their decorative value increased. The body of the vessel is flatter and thinner, with exquisite carvings. There is a hole in the middle, and the area around the hole is shaped like a chicken heart, with various patterns carved on it. This is what the cultural relics and archaeological circles today commonly call a "chicken heart pendant."

At this time, the jade bracelet had become decorative and was no longer used as an implement. After the Song Dynasty, this trend became more and more serious, and reached its peak in the Qing Dynasty.

Han Dynasty Jade Bracelet with Dragon Pattern

In the Song Dynasty, based on the jade rings made in the Han Dynasty, the jade thumb rings in the shape of sheets and short tubes were developed. By the Qing Dynasty, the jade ring had lost its notch and thickness, and was an object of appreciation for every member of the Eight Banners clan, with its decorative significance greatly enhanced. There is an old saying among the Beijing people: A prince has three treasures in his hand: a ring, a walnut, and a bird in a cage . This is referring to the popularity of jade rings.

The reason why the fashion of wearing jade rings appeared among the aristocracy in the Qing Dynasty was inseparable from two jade-loving "fashion promoters".

The first one is Emperor Qianlong . As the emperor, he had a special liking for jade rings. According to historical records, Emperor Qianlong wrote more than 50 poems for the jade ring in his lifetime. If you zoom in on the details of the "Qianlong Grand Review" collected by the Palace Museum, you can see that he was wearing a white jade ring on his thumb.

Qianlong Grand Review - White Jade Ring on Right Thumb

In 2007, a boxed set of seven jade rings used by Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty was sold at Sotheby's spring auction. Based on the model, quality and age, the auction price was as high as HK$47.36 million.

Jade ring used by Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty

The second is Empress Dowager Cixi . As the actual controller of the late Qing Dynasty, Cixi single-handedly brought jade culture to its peak. The burial objects in his tomb include countless jade products, such as jade cabbage, jade watermelon, jade night pearls... each of them is priceless. The jade ring currently collected in the Capital Museum was snatched by Cixi from Prince Gong and given to her favorite eunuch Li Lianying. It is estimated to be worth 200 million yuan.

Li Lianying Jade Ring

What the superior likes, the subordinates will follow. As many Qing emperors and powerful nobles admired and loved jade rings, a trend eventually emerged in which everyone, from princes and nobles to ordinary Manchu and Mongolian bannermen, as well as wealthy businessmen who pretentiously pursued elegance, liked to wear them.

Why do the rich and powerful love jade rings?

This is because the jade ring has an unusual meaning in Chinese culture:

▌It is a symbol of power and a reflection of status

The thumb ring itself was used in military operations and archery, and was one of the weapons used to conquer the world. In the course of cultural development, the ring has integrated its meaning of symbolizing military force and extended the image of "being used by people with strong abilities and decision-making power", becoming an expression of great power.

At the same time, jade was a high-quality material that only the aristocracy could use in ancient times. In addition, many emperors of the Qing Dynasty embellished it, making the jade ring a symbol of the wearer's status.

▌It is a display of wealth

In ancient times, the materials used for rings varied depending on the wealth of the class. Commoners mostly use bone or leather as their weapons, while ordinary bannermen mostly use white jade because it is cheap and easy to obtain. The best choice for noble rings is made of jadeite, which has varying colors and patterns . The ones that are emerald green and clear like water are priceless and only the very rich would dare to wear them .

▌It is an expression of a gentleman who is both civil and military, and cultivates virtue

The jade thumb ring itself is a weapon for military affairs, and later it came to symbolize "archery" among the six arts of a Confucian gentleman, integrating literature and martial arts. At the same time, depending on the different jade surfaces carved, it is divided into civil and military rings. Most martial arts rings are plain and practical, serving as a reminder not to forget martial arts. The outer wall of the engraved rings are often intricately cast with poems or patterns, which serve as a "warning" for gentlemen. They can be enjoyed in the hands at all times, and can also serve as a constant warning in the heart, reminding the wearer to cultivate the virtues of a gentleman.

Qing Dynasty Qianlong Jade Poetry Ring

Several points about jade ring

In modern times, jade rings have become a favorite of some men and women who pursue elegance. However, when choosing a jade ring, you need to pay attention to the following aspects:

▌Look at the material

Jade rings come in a wide variety of colors and materials. But truly high-quality jade rings are generally made of top-grade jadeite or jadeite. Such a wrench has better appreciation potential.

Moreover, open thumb rings often come in sets. The remaining stone from making thumb rings is usually carved into straps, pendants or beads, which can be combined with the thumb ring. They can be rubbed and played with, as well as worn and maintained.

▌Look at the craftsmanship

In addition to the texture, the shape and patterns of the ring are also very particular, such as auspicious animal patterns, floral patterns, landscapes, figures, poems, etc. Integrating images of people, animals, etc. with natural landscapes or text on an area of ​​less than a few inches can enhance the style of the jade ring. For example, the Qing Dynasty Fu Lu Shou white jade ring has three animals carved on the ring surface: a bat (Fu), a deer (Lu), and a crane (a spiritual bird that symbolizes longevity), which convey a beautiful meaning.

In addition, high-quality jade rings usually retain a layer of stone skin for carving, making the composition and craftsmanship more outstanding, adding to the value of the ring. In the "Ancient Picture of Love and Mirror" collected by the Palace Museum, Emperor Daoguang wore a half-red and half-white jade ring, which was very eye-catching.

Ancient Pictures of Love

▌See how to wear it

There are also some particular ways to wear a jade ring. The correct way to wear it is:

The convex side should be facing the base of the thumb, and the concave side should be facing the fingertips. Leave a gap at the base of the thumb. Do not wear it all the way through, and the lower part should not exceed half of the second knuckle . At the same time, it is necessary to avoid bumps and maintenance to achieve the effect of "people raise jade, jade raises people".

We often say that jade bracelets are thoughtful dowries passed down by jade lovers to their daughters, while jade rings are spiritual sustenance passed down to their sons. The love that parents have for their children throughout history has always been like this.

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