How to set jewelry to look good? A collection of classic setting methods

For jewelry, unless it is a loose stone that can be directly drilled and worn, it all needs to be processed by inlay. Clever inlay can not only ensure the firmness of the gemstone, but also meet consumers' pursuit of innovative and personalized jewelry. So what are the inlay methods? What are some classic styles that never go out of style?

01. Prong setting

Claw setting refers to the setting method of using metal claws of suitable length on a precious metal bracket to tightly hold the gemstone .

Six-claw setting three views

The prong setting is open all around, which can magnify the size of the gemstone. According to the number of claws, it is divided into two claws, three claws, four claws, five claws, six claws and eight claws. Among them, marquise-shaped gems often use two claws, and teardrop-shaped (pear-shaped) gems often use three or five claws; four claws and six claws are the most common.

02. Bezel setting

Bezel setting refers to a setting method in which the girdle of the gemstone is wrapped by pushing up the raised metal edge . The setting is mainly composed of a bottom lining and a raised metal edge, which serves to enclose the gemstone.

Bezel Setting Diagram

Bezel setting is usually used for cabochon gemstones, which has a more secure effect. However, the exposed size of the gemstone will be reduced under the surrounding. Based on this, it can be divided into full bezel setting and half bezel setting. Among them, full bezel setting is relatively more secure and more common.

03. Forced inlay

Forced setting refers to a setting method in which the setting mouth acts as a cushion for the top of the gemstone, a groove is cut on the inner side of the periphery, the waist of the gemstone is placed in the groove, and pressure is applied to the top of the groove to allow the grooves to gradually merge, thereby fixing the gemstone in the groove.

Diagram of forced inlay

Depending on the amount of "clamping" of the gemstones, it can be divided into encircling setting and semi-encircling setting. At present, semi-forced inlay is more common in the market and is more beautiful.

Semi-pressed inlay diagram

It should be noted that if the groove of this setting method is too small, it will be difficult for the waist of the gem to be stuck in it. If the groove is too large, it will easily cause the gem to loosen or even fall off, so the technical requirements are very high.

04. Track inlay

Track setting, also known as clip setting or wall setting, is a method of first making grooves on the inner side of the precious metal support and then clamping the gemstones into the grooves in order. Multiple gemstones are fixed in a row by the track-shaped setting formed by the metal walls on both sides, hence the name. It is mainly used for setting small gemstones.

Track setting ring

This setting method mainly requires the uniformity of gemstones and the coordination of colors.

Track setting ring

Compared with other setting methods, track setting is more difficult to operate and more technical. However, in addition to the precious metal slots that fix the gems, this kind of setting also squeezes the gems against each other, making it very secure.

05. Nail setting

Nail setting refers to the method of using a small shovel made from a steel needle to scoop up a piece of metal, which is then further shoveled to form a small hill of metal. After absorbing the beads, it becomes a small nail with a round and shiny top, and the gem is then fixed by squeezing the small nail.

Nail setting jewelry

The peg setting is often used for small gemstones. For diamonds, the size usually does not exceed three centimeters. This is a more difficult setting method because the size of the setting stones and spade nails is small, so it requires not only skilled skills but also good eyesight.

06. Inlay

Smear setting, also known as Australian setting, refers to the method of using a steel needle to roll the metal at the edge of the setting stone in a circular direction over the waist of the gemstone to fix the gemstone. The gemstones inlaid in smear setting are generally between 2 and 5 points, and usually no more than 10 points, such as Cartier's classic love series.

Cartier love series bracelet

07. Bead inlay

Bead setting refers to a setting method that relies on the rotation of a bead needle to press the metal around the set stone toward the waist of the gemstone to fix the gemstone. This setting method is suitable for gemstones of smaller size, and the girdle diameter generally does not exceed 2.5mm. If the gemstone is too large, it will affect the reliability of the setting.

Nail setting jewelry

08. Hole setting

Hole setting is a setting method that involves drilling holes in the appropriate parts of the gemstones to be set, and using adhesive to adhere the gemstones to the metal columns on the precious metal setting. It is commonly used in pearl setting. This setting method can also be applied to some organic gemstones and other gemstones such as spherical and teardrop shapes.

Hole setting diagram

This setting method requires drilling holes in the gemstones. Sometimes the gemstones will be fully drilled, so there is no need to use adhesives. Long precious metal needles are directly passed through the gemstones and connected using a riveting process.

09. Inlay

Wrap setting refers to a setting method that uses metal to wrap the gemstone to maintain its original shape to make it suitable for wearing jewelry. The traditional wire-wrap setting method will wrap the gemstone, reducing the exposed part of the gemstone, so that its beautiful luster and color cannot be fully displayed.

Wrap ring

Now, due to the development of technology, the inlay has also evolved further. The metal wire has evolved into metal strips, metal meshes, etc., and many other gemstones are inlaid on the strips and meshes. The specific style can be based on the designer's imagination.

10. Micro-inlay

Microsetting refers to the method of setting gemstones under a microscope. The gemstones inlaid by this method are generally below 2 points, the maximum does not exceed 3 points, and the minimum is not less than 0.3 points. Micro-inlay can increase the beauty of jewelry.

Micro-paving Jewelry

11. Borderless inlay

Borderless setting is also called hidden setting and invisible gold setting. A hidden setting means that no metal support or base is visible from the front of the jewelry. This technique was invented by Parisian craftsman Jacques-Albert Algier in 1929, and currently only a few jewelers know how to use it.

Van Cleef & Arpels borderless jewellery

In 1934, Van Cleef & Arpels applied for a patent for "invisible" setting. Later, this inlay technique was renamed "secret" inlay. By 1990, this technology was also applied to diamond setting.

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